A Twist on Bolognese
In a story from the Fall 2022 issue of Spotlight Magazine,
violinist Eli Matthews provides a lesson in making a great sauce
A Twist on Traditional Bolognese
By Eli Matthews, First Assistant Principal, Second Violins
Everyone has their own Bolognese recipe — many are good, many are not, and there are a rare few that are exceptional. While on tour in Paris, I had a truly memorable version, and since then I’ve been trying to perfect my own recipe. With a little help from a Mario Batali recipe, I’ve cultivated, while maybe not an authentic Bolognese, one that is supremely satisfying.
Prep time 1 hour, plus 4-5 hours simmering
INGREDIENTS
1 Vidalia onion, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
2 carrots, shredded
3 bulbs garlic
2 red bell peppers
3 strips thick-sliced applewood bacon, diced
3 pounds 85/15 ground beef
1 pound ground veal
1 pound ground pork
1 c. good-quality dry white wine, if you wouldn’t drink it, don’t cook with it!!! (I prefer a Sauvignon Blanc)
1 can low-sodium beef broth
Fresh spice mix (if you have to use dried spices, cut the measurements in half)
1/4 cup basil
1/4 cup Italian parsley
2 tablespoons oregano
2 tablespoons sage
1 tablespoon thyme
1 tablespoon Hungarian hot paprika
Dash of cayenne pepper
Dash of fresh nutmeg (no more than 1/8 tsp – a little goes a long way!)
1 15oz. can Italian tomato sauce
1 c. heavy whipping cream
Kosher salt to taste
1 teaspoon fresh ground white pepper
Preheat oven to 400.
Heat 2–3 tablespoons of the olive oil a frying pan, and add the chopped onion, celery and shredded carrots to create a mirepoix. Once the onions are translucent, cover and set aside.
Cut off the tops of the garlic bulbs so that some of the cloves are exposed, and place in a foil pouch drizzled with olive oil. Drizzle the red bell peppers with olive oil and place them on a baking sheet. Place both the garlic pouch and the peppers in the oven. Once the skins of the peppers are darkened and blistered peppers are done, remove them and place in a sandwich bag for 15 minutes. Remove the skins and finely chop. Roast the garlic for 30–40 minutes, until the cloves look golden brown and are soft and can be easily squeezed out of their skins.
In a large Dutch oven (I use a 7.5-quart enameled pot) over medium heat, fry 3 strips of diced, thick-sliced applewood smoked bacon. When a significant amount of fat has pooled in the pot, remove the bacon bits with a slotted spoon (the bits don’t need to be well done, they will finish cooking later) and set aside.
To the remaining bacon fat, add the ground beef, veal, and pork as well as salt and pepper to taste. As the meat browns, chop and mix thoroughly, continue to cook for about 30-40 minutes until the mixture develops a Maillard reaction — which is when the meat browns and develops a more complex flavor — this is VERY important.
After you have achieved the Maillard reaction add the white wine to deglaze the pot — scraping up the browned bits — mix for a few minutes to allow the alcohol to evaporate and return the bacon to the pot. Add the fresh chopped spices, mirepoix, beef broth, roasted garlic, roasted red bell peppers, Italian tomato sauce, and spices. Lastly, last add 1 c. heavy whipping cream.
Simmer without covering for about 4–5 hours, stirring often!
Serve over your favorite pasta with a nice shower of grated parmesan and some chopped fresh parsley.
Alternatively, the Bolognese can also be used to make a fantastic lasagna, if you’re not too exhausted. Simply layer the sauce, lasagna pasta, and your favorite cheeses in a 13x9 glass pan, cover with foil, and cook in a 350⁰ oven until the cheese is baked. For a finishing touch, uncover and turn on the broiler for a minute or two to brown the top layer of cheese. Delicious!!!